Angels Landing
Angels Landing in Zion National Park is a hike that by the numbers does not particularly stand out. It’s 5.4 miles round trip from shuttle stop #6 (the Grotto). It includes 1,500′ of elevation gain, and for most of the first 2 miles it feels like many other uphill hikes a person might do. The magic lies in the 1,500 foot tall ½ mile stretch of rock rising out of the middle of Zion Canyon that makes up the middle section of the hike. Alex and I (C) were apprehensive about that middle mile.
We embarked from the Grotto around 8AM. A little nervous, but armed with gloves for the chain section and fresh legs we were excited to be starting one of the most famous hiking trails in the world. Compared to many hikes in Zion, the first mile is exceedingly unremarkable. The trail meanders slowly upwards, towards what appears at first to be a dead-end. At this point we were unsure of where the trail was taking us, not realizing the towering rock formation ahead was what we’d stand on top of before the morning was complete. Around the start of the second mile we could see people marching up the cliffside switchbacks, ants drawn ever upward into a small canyon nestled between Angels Landing on our right and Cathedral Mountain ahead.
On our trek up the 1,000 vertical feet of switchbacks we took a few photos of the canyon behind us, along with snagging a rest or two along the way. The trail to Angels Landing is shared by many people hiking the West Rim trail to Scout Lookout, therefore, even at 8AM it was pretty busy. Scout Lookout is a relatively flat area right before Angels Landing that provides great views of the canyon. Many people that don’t have a permit or are unable to hike Angels Landing will make the pilgrimage to Scout Lookout.
After a flat section to catch our breath on the walk through “refrigerator” canyon (named for the cooler temps and gentle breeze found here during hot summer months) we were faced with several more switchbacks, before finally laying eyes on a series of 21 tightly packed switchbacks, affectionately known as “Walter’s Wiggles”. The name is in honor of Walter Ruesch, the first superintendent for Zion National Park, and the man behind the crazy idea to construct them in the first place. While writing this, a lyric from an Eminem song comes to mind: “A visionary, vision is scary”. Walter had a vision, and to this point in the hike, we were still a bit scared of it.
Photo from dawn2dawn photography
With the wiggles conquered, we were at Scout Lookout and had a chance to regroup before heading up the ½ mile long rock formation that is Angels Landing. Overall, I’d say Alex and I had similar levels of nervous energy. I’m more sure of myself, but have always been very hesitant with heights. Meanwhile, Alex is less scared of heights, but is much less sure of herself. After resting for a few minutes, reassuring each other that we would be fine, and putting on our gloves, it was time to do the thing we came here to do.
The first section is both wider and flatter than the rest of the ascent, and provides a nice way to ease into the later sections. There are chains along large portions of the route, but they are on the uphill side and only provide so much mental security with open air drop-offs a few feet away. Alex chose to go first, which I think simultaneously made me less nervous (I could focus on her in front of me instead of looking around at the 1,100-1,500’ drop-offs), and more nervous (I was focusing on her and constantly hoping she didn’t slip). There is a section about ⅓ of the way up that people refer to as “the chain section”, even though there are chains all over the hike. It is about 3’ wide and while it’s not much harder than walking up a few steps, you still feel nervous crossing it – or at least I did. I came to find out later that Alex was so focused she didn’t even realize anyone made a big deal out of that section until after she was beyond it.
Once we had crossed that section, I think I started to feel a little bit more confident that we were going to make it to the top. The other unique thing about hiking up Angels Landing is that the trail is pretty tight in many spots, but there is only one skinny trail to hike up and down. People going up are usually given the right of way, but most of the time it comes down to whichever group has the best place to fold into a wall, or congregate on a wider section that has something to hold onto. The final upward climb is pretty steep, but the chains provide a good security blanket on most sections.
The view from the top is incredible and hardly feels real. (To be fair, the views on the way up are almost as good, but I was mostly too terrified to look at them) The geography of Angels Landing has it jutting out sideways into the middle of Zion Canyon. You can look both directions and see a canyon as much as 2,600’ deep that you’re somehow sitting 1,500’ off the canyon floor in the middle of. On most hikes you head towards a viewpoint, but at Zion, and especially on this trail, everywhere you look is the best view you’ve ever seen.
Being on top of a rock in the middle of a canyon does not stop chipmunks from wanting to steal your snacks, however! It’s clear people don’t listen to the rules about feeding the wildlife, because I had a chipmunk climb up on my lap when it heard my bag of trail mix open. While very cute, I wish people were better.
The descent was thankfully uneventful. We were both surprised going down felt better than on the way up. A lot of times going down something you’ve climbed feels less secure, but thanks to confidence that came from now knowing what to expect, we were able to climb down and even enjoy the views a little bit. Carried by our elation and relief to have completed Angels Landing, we descended the numerous switchbacks with a pep in our step and an eye towards a well-deserved nap!
